Here comes the corner, hit the brakes!

 When you finally decide to get a new or "new to you" car, we go through a list of personal choices that we would like to have. For some, it is leather seats, power sunroofs, or “moon roofs” as I call them, navigation or a kickass sound system. Others opt for convenience items such as DVD/CD players, MP3 and Bluetooth technology that seems to follow us everywhere. While some of things may be important, I believe too many people over look one of the most important features of an automobile, the brakes.

I don’t know about you, but when I am operating my vehicle, or any vehicle for that matter, I always check the brakes before going anywhere. It may be a nice feeling when the car starts but it is even a better feeling when you go to hit the brakes suddenly and they work properly. Serious, life threaten events have been spared due to the simple fact that when you needed them, your vehicles braking system was there and was able to do exactly what it was designed to do.

There were over 32,000 traffic related deaths in 2014. Many of which could have been avoided with simple preventive maintenance. One very important maintenance item is the braking system. This system has evolved just as the modern car has. Over the years the style, look, material, production and application have all changed. Most automobiles these days come equipped with 4-wheel disc brakes. This means that each wheel has a rotor with a caliper installed. Inside the caliper are the brake pads. The older system, the drum braking system, is still used but has gone back on the shelf for many manufactures. The 4-wheel disc brake system is much easier to work on compared to the drum system, and the pictures will show you why.

First is a common drum brake system, removed from the vehicle. There is one additional piece that is bolted to the hub assembly called the wheel cylinder. The wheel cylinder acts as a caliper and uses hydraulic pressure to push the brake shoes against the inside of the drum thus slowing the vehicle.

This picture is of a common brake caliper system. The red caliper is bolted to the wheel hub assembly and floats on both sides of the rotor.

Drum systems consists of a somewhat complex system of springs, levers and hydraulic pistons. Each of these pieces have a unique place, fastened and under the protection of the drum, they all work together to make the car stop. On the caliper system, everything is accomplished internally under hydraulic pressure with one or more pistons or pots. These pistons push the brake pads against the rotor to slow the car down. Instead of messing with a web of springs under tension and different levers to change your pads, it is easier to unbolt two bolts and slide out the old pads and slide in the new ones.

The number one thing I look at on a vehicle are the brakes. If it does not have 4-wheel disc brakes then I don’t want it. I am not saying that they are not safe, I just prefer the advantage and simplicity of them compared to drum brakes. The ease of maintenance and performance are also excellent driving points, no pun intended.

Brake fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles or every two years, whichever comes first. Unfortunately, many of us over look this until we are told by a mechanic or friend that the fluid needs to be replaced. The most common term is having your brakes bled. This is another relatively easy maintenance task that you can accomplish yourself in about half a day. When completed yourself you can end up saving hundreds if not thousands of dollars’ worth of repairs over the years.

Here are some of the tools necessary for the job;

I usually use five mil nitrile gloves when I work on cars, keeps the hands clean. A pair of safety glasses or goggles with side protection will protect against splatter. Use a good rag to clean up with as you work. A jack and jack stands are necessary to remove the tire and support the vehicle. A decent funnel, make sure the filler neck will fit into the brake fluid reservoir fill hole. Quality brake fluid from a new, unopened container. DOT 3 is standard in most vehicles but be sure to check what the owner’s manual says. A brake bleeder screw wrench, this is sold in most auto stores and varies in size. Again, you will need to check what is recommended for your particular vehicle but if you cannot find one, just match up an open-ended wrench to the size of the screw. A turkey baster will come in handy to remove the old brake fluid from the reservoir. Finally yet importantly, a hand operated vacuum pump or similar one-man bleeder system. You can skip the vacuum pump if you have a friend that can sit in the car and pump the brakes as you break open the bleeder screws. This is a tedious and important job, make sure it is someone that can hold the brake down for extended periods.

In order to do this you would first set your parking brake and chock the wheels so the vehicle does not move. Break loose the wheel lug nuts, place your jack to provide adequate lifting range. Always follow equipment safety procedures. Lift the vehicle and place a jack stand so it will hold the weight properly. Remove the tire and wheel, place under the vehicle along the side skirts just in case the car falls, the tire and wheel will support the weight like a jack stand. Pop the hood so you can access the brake fluid reservoir. Take the turkey baster or suction pump if you have one and extract as much old brake fluid as possible. Be careful not to drip or spill any fluid, it is very corrosive if let alone on painted surfaces. Once you get as much out as you can, open the new fluid and carefully refill the reservoir. Replace the cap and move back to the first tire you are working on. This should be the farthest tire away from the reservoir, then the next and the next. The order most often goes right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Be sure to check your owner's manual or technical publication for the proper bleeding procedure. Once you establish the sequence, use a clear plastic tube from the hand vacuum and attach it to the bleeder screw. The screw will always be on the top of the caliper or wheel cylinder. Once attached, pump the vacuum until there are 15-20 in. Hg. Once there, carefully break loose the bleeder screw so the vacuum pulls the fluid from the caliper threw the bleeder screw and into the catch can provided with the vacuum system. Just before the pressure hits 0, tighten the screw back up to reseal it. Then start the process over again until clean, clear fluid is all that is being pulled out. This can take awhile as the fluid has to go from the reservoir all the way through the lines and out the bleeder screw. Be sure to check the fluid level and top off periodically, you do not want to run out of fluid in the reservoir as this will introduce air into the system. Air can compress and will diminish braking effectiveness. Once finished bleeding all four corners, reverse the order of removal and tighten all fasteners to the proper torque rating. BEFORE DRIVING OFF, once you start your vehicle pump the brakes a few times, turn off the car and re check the fluid level, chances are that it will be low.

If you have a helper instead of the hand pump, then while you are at the wheel with the clear tubing hooked up and draining into a container, have your helper pump the brakes 5-7 good full pumps and hold on the last one. Once they are holding the brake down, open the bleeder screw and let the old fluid flow out. While that is open the brake pedal will start to go to the floor. Just before that happens the helper needs to say something to prompt you to close the screw. If the pedal goes all the way down before the screw is closed, air can enter the system and you will have to start that wheel over. Repeat this process until clean fluid can be observed coming out.

The idea is to have clean, clear fluid with no air bubbles coming from the caliper's or wheel cylinder.

The process is time consuming but the result is a job you know was performed properly. The only cost involved is the new fluid and perhaps a vacuum pump or your friend’s time. I have done this many times on my vehicles so the tools that I have had to purchase have paid for themselves with the labor cost I have avoided by not going to a garage. Some shops charge over $100 to do a brake flush, you can do it for less than $50 the first time. Subsequent times would only cost the price of the fluid.

This is another easy preventive maintenance task that can be done over the weekend. I urge everyone to always do his or her research and use a common sense approach to maintenance. Safety first folks, brake fluid is harsh stuff. If you drip it on any painted surface on your car, within 30 minutes it will eat a hole down to bare metal. It also is very dangerous to the eyes and skin. Always clean up any spills before continuing work. Always wear and utilize proper protective equipment.