Going fast with class

What an idea! Take the love of going fast and incorporate the comfort of your favorite spot. Going fast is easy, anyone can pay someone to make their car faster. It is the ones who keep all the little convenience items intact while building their beast. To take out the old motor and put in a new one from a different car is cheating in my book. To keep it classy, one must keep some original items to show that you can have the best of both worlds. When I was rebuilding my first engine, I truly did not know what I was doing. I had an almost completely stock Grand National and I hacked the HVAC system out of it to make room for turbo plumbing. Worst choice I ever made. To replace those pieces would cost me hours of research and work and possibly thousands of dollars. If I would of made a more well informed decision, I could of retained the both the heat and the A/C. It is the little things that you lose sight of when getting into a big project. I see a lot of these cars with much more modifications made but they still appeared factory or at least had all the working factory components. I have really slowed down on my upgrades and it isn't because of money. I want to make sure that I have done all the research possible and that this is going to be the best informed decision that can be made, both for me and the longevity and performance of my vehicle.

The other things I want to touch on is the cleanliness of your ride. I know a lot of people just wait for the sky to open up and let nature wash the road grim and bugs off the car. It is easy as you just sit there and wait. It is cheap, as rain usually is and in some places, never seems to end. This method, while efficient, does not do a thorough enough job to proper wash your vehicle. While the methodology is highly debated, the main idea and end state are the same. Take a dirty car and make it a clean car. I think one of the most important places to keep rinsed all year round is the under carriage of the vehicle. This is most commonly the dirtiest place on a vehicle next to the engine and engine bay. Anything that is outside hits the bottom of your car. All the salt from winter, the sand from summer, the falling leaves from fall getting into all those hard to reach places and rotting away. All these factors have an impact on the readiness of your vehicle. Proper maintenance is not just changing fluids and rotating the tires. One must keep the dirt, grim, grease, oil, bugs, slime, tar and every other substance off your vehicle to maintain the longevity of the paint and other sensitive components.

I always wash my cars before and after every road trip, after every oil change, before going to car meets or shows, once a week in the winter to keep the salt from eating the paint and metal, and anytime I just don't have anything productive to do. I wash from the top down and front to back. I use Maguire's auto products because I like the selection and the price. I have not had any bad luck with them either and the products continue to keep my cars looking new.

Whatever you decide make sure you do your homework and keep it clean. There is nothing that hurts a car more than dirt, whether it be on the outside of the car, the interior of the car or in the engine. Dirt and contaminates are the number one destroyer of automobiles. Keep it shiny side up folks and stay fast, but don't compromise class.

Time to get up to speed.

The car I refer to as my second vehicle is a 2006 Subaru WRX Limited Wagon. Like every Subaru owner I have had the pleasure of meeting, we all love our Subaru. It is easy to understand why. They are safe, one of the safest manufacturers in fact. Almost every Subaru comes with Symmetrical All-wheel drive. A proven safety feature for all types of climate. Their manufacturing facility in Indiana has a zero landfill rating by the way.They have new technologies and high crash ratings. Another benefit of this particular model is the turbocharger system.

A turbocharged engine is able to produce more power than a naturally aspirated or "N/A" engine. A turbocharger is an air pump that uses exhaust gasses to spin a turbine wheel. The turbine wheel on the exhaust or "hot side" has a matching compressor wheel on the intake or "cold side." The two are connected by the same shaft that runs through a center housing and rotating assembly (CHRA). As the turbine spins, so does the compressor wheel. The compressor wheel spins at extremely high speeds—over 20,000 RPM's—and compresses the intake air. The compressed air passes through an intercooler and is sent to the cylinders. Exhaust gas is a waste product so the energy developed by the turbine is essentially free because it does not use any of the engine's power it helps to produce. I know that sounds like a mess of tornado's wrapped up in a bag of hurricanes so let me put it this way... The faster the exhaust leaves the motor and spins the turbo, the more the air is compressed and sent into the engine. This is commonly referred to as "boost."

The "hot side" or exhaust side of a turbocharger. Careful they can get up to 1800 degrees.

The "cold side" or intake side of a turbocharger. The air intake and up pipe shown installed (Left). The intake piping and up pipe removed (Right). Note the compressor wheel on the cold side of the turbo.

Above is the stock GM intercooler. This is a device that cools the air after is it charged from the turbo. Intercoolers work just like a radiator for an engine but instead of fluid being cooled, it is the air being cooled prior to entering the cylinders. The cooler the air, the more dense it is. Cooler air means increased efficiency, horsepower and torque. The intercooler is always located after the turbocharger and before the intake manifold. The boost that is added from the turbo is preset by the auto manufacturer. Many owners have changed the set limit or upgraded to a bigger sized turbo. The advantage of upgrading is more power. The flip-side to that is you will need supporting modifications to the vehicle to handle the bigger turbo and the added horsepower. This is not something you take lightly. A bigger turbo means you will need a stronger fuel pump, possibly bigger fuel lines. An upgraded air intake is highly recommended. You will also need to upgrade your fuel injectors to be able to match the amount of fuel with the amount of increased or "charged" air. With this increase in fuel and air you will also need to reprogram the vehicles computer to recognize these changes and make corrections accurately. This is known as a tune. Some places tune on the street while the car is driving in its natural habitat. While others prefer to dyno tune a car. This means that the car sits inside or on a trailer and is strapped down to a large rolling drum. The driver follows a procedure for accelerating and a computer measures the cars performance based on input from the car and the drum. Both have their respective advantages and disadvantages, like everything in life. I would personally have my car street tuned because that is where it will be when it is being used.

The thing that I really enjoy about a turbocharged car is its ability to speed up very rapidly. This is a safety measure in my book. When I need my vehicle to accelerate quickly, I know that it can and it will. Because of my military service, I take vehicle to another level. I want to know that when the need arises, I will be able to move quickly. My first turbo car was a Subaru, my second was a turbo Buick. I can guarantee that my third will be another Subaru. Hands down the most fun car I have ever owned and safest It has paid for itself time and time again. Unstoppable in all conditions, very dependable, and very easy to work on. I am not trying to sell Subaru as a brand I promise. Even though 95% of all Subaru's sold in the last 10 years are still on the road and that says a lot for a company.

Here comes the corner, hit the brakes!

 When you finally decide to get a new or "new to you" car, we go through a list of personal choices that we would like to have. For some, it is leather seats, power sunroofs, or “moon roofs” as I call them, navigation or a kickass sound system. Others opt for convenience items such as DVD/CD players, MP3 and Bluetooth technology that seems to follow us everywhere. While some of things may be important, I believe too many people over look one of the most important features of an automobile, the brakes.

I don’t know about you, but when I am operating my vehicle, or any vehicle for that matter, I always check the brakes before going anywhere. It may be a nice feeling when the car starts but it is even a better feeling when you go to hit the brakes suddenly and they work properly. Serious, life threaten events have been spared due to the simple fact that when you needed them, your vehicles braking system was there and was able to do exactly what it was designed to do.

There were over 32,000 traffic related deaths in 2014. Many of which could have been avoided with simple preventive maintenance. One very important maintenance item is the braking system. This system has evolved just as the modern car has. Over the years the style, look, material, production and application have all changed. Most automobiles these days come equipped with 4-wheel disc brakes. This means that each wheel has a rotor with a caliper installed. Inside the caliper are the brake pads. The older system, the drum braking system, is still used but has gone back on the shelf for many manufactures. The 4-wheel disc brake system is much easier to work on compared to the drum system, and the pictures will show you why.

First is a common drum brake system, removed from the vehicle. There is one additional piece that is bolted to the hub assembly called the wheel cylinder. The wheel cylinder acts as a caliper and uses hydraulic pressure to push the brake shoes against the inside of the drum thus slowing the vehicle.

This picture is of a common brake caliper system. The red caliper is bolted to the wheel hub assembly and floats on both sides of the rotor.

Drum systems consists of a somewhat complex system of springs, levers and hydraulic pistons. Each of these pieces have a unique place, fastened and under the protection of the drum, they all work together to make the car stop. On the caliper system, everything is accomplished internally under hydraulic pressure with one or more pistons or pots. These pistons push the brake pads against the rotor to slow the car down. Instead of messing with a web of springs under tension and different levers to change your pads, it is easier to unbolt two bolts and slide out the old pads and slide in the new ones.

The number one thing I look at on a vehicle are the brakes. If it does not have 4-wheel disc brakes then I don’t want it. I am not saying that they are not safe, I just prefer the advantage and simplicity of them compared to drum brakes. The ease of maintenance and performance are also excellent driving points, no pun intended.

Brake fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles or every two years, whichever comes first. Unfortunately, many of us over look this until we are told by a mechanic or friend that the fluid needs to be replaced. The most common term is having your brakes bled. This is another relatively easy maintenance task that you can accomplish yourself in about half a day. When completed yourself you can end up saving hundreds if not thousands of dollars’ worth of repairs over the years.

Here are some of the tools necessary for the job;

I usually use five mil nitrile gloves when I work on cars, keeps the hands clean. A pair of safety glasses or goggles with side protection will protect against splatter. Use a good rag to clean up with as you work. A jack and jack stands are necessary to remove the tire and support the vehicle. A decent funnel, make sure the filler neck will fit into the brake fluid reservoir fill hole. Quality brake fluid from a new, unopened container. DOT 3 is standard in most vehicles but be sure to check what the owner’s manual says. A brake bleeder screw wrench, this is sold in most auto stores and varies in size. Again, you will need to check what is recommended for your particular vehicle but if you cannot find one, just match up an open-ended wrench to the size of the screw. A turkey baster will come in handy to remove the old brake fluid from the reservoir. Finally yet importantly, a hand operated vacuum pump or similar one-man bleeder system. You can skip the vacuum pump if you have a friend that can sit in the car and pump the brakes as you break open the bleeder screws. This is a tedious and important job, make sure it is someone that can hold the brake down for extended periods.

In order to do this you would first set your parking brake and chock the wheels so the vehicle does not move. Break loose the wheel lug nuts, place your jack to provide adequate lifting range. Always follow equipment safety procedures. Lift the vehicle and place a jack stand so it will hold the weight properly. Remove the tire and wheel, place under the vehicle along the side skirts just in case the car falls, the tire and wheel will support the weight like a jack stand. Pop the hood so you can access the brake fluid reservoir. Take the turkey baster or suction pump if you have one and extract as much old brake fluid as possible. Be careful not to drip or spill any fluid, it is very corrosive if let alone on painted surfaces. Once you get as much out as you can, open the new fluid and carefully refill the reservoir. Replace the cap and move back to the first tire you are working on. This should be the farthest tire away from the reservoir, then the next and the next. The order most often goes right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Be sure to check your owner's manual or technical publication for the proper bleeding procedure. Once you establish the sequence, use a clear plastic tube from the hand vacuum and attach it to the bleeder screw. The screw will always be on the top of the caliper or wheel cylinder. Once attached, pump the vacuum until there are 15-20 in. Hg. Once there, carefully break loose the bleeder screw so the vacuum pulls the fluid from the caliper threw the bleeder screw and into the catch can provided with the vacuum system. Just before the pressure hits 0, tighten the screw back up to reseal it. Then start the process over again until clean, clear fluid is all that is being pulled out. This can take awhile as the fluid has to go from the reservoir all the way through the lines and out the bleeder screw. Be sure to check the fluid level and top off periodically, you do not want to run out of fluid in the reservoir as this will introduce air into the system. Air can compress and will diminish braking effectiveness. Once finished bleeding all four corners, reverse the order of removal and tighten all fasteners to the proper torque rating. BEFORE DRIVING OFF, once you start your vehicle pump the brakes a few times, turn off the car and re check the fluid level, chances are that it will be low.

If you have a helper instead of the hand pump, then while you are at the wheel with the clear tubing hooked up and draining into a container, have your helper pump the brakes 5-7 good full pumps and hold on the last one. Once they are holding the brake down, open the bleeder screw and let the old fluid flow out. While that is open the brake pedal will start to go to the floor. Just before that happens the helper needs to say something to prompt you to close the screw. If the pedal goes all the way down before the screw is closed, air can enter the system and you will have to start that wheel over. Repeat this process until clean fluid can be observed coming out.

The idea is to have clean, clear fluid with no air bubbles coming from the caliper's or wheel cylinder.

The process is time consuming but the result is a job you know was performed properly. The only cost involved is the new fluid and perhaps a vacuum pump or your friend’s time. I have done this many times on my vehicles so the tools that I have had to purchase have paid for themselves with the labor cost I have avoided by not going to a garage. Some shops charge over $100 to do a brake flush, you can do it for less than $50 the first time. Subsequent times would only cost the price of the fluid.

This is another easy preventive maintenance task that can be done over the weekend. I urge everyone to always do his or her research and use a common sense approach to maintenance. Safety first folks, brake fluid is harsh stuff. If you drip it on any painted surface on your car, within 30 minutes it will eat a hole down to bare metal. It also is very dangerous to the eyes and skin. Always clean up any spills before continuing work. Always wear and utilize proper protective equipment.

Fourth Gear

I want to talk about the lifeblood of your ride. There are up to nine fluids that keep your car or truck running. I will be hitting on some important ones that you can do yourself and save money on labor charges and or high priced service calls from your local "stealership" or garage.

The good news is that the fluids you require can be found at most auto part stores. If you do not have one of those handy then Wal-Mart, Meijer and Kmart stores also carry a decent selection of name brand and staple fluids. Even some gas stations will stock the very basic stuff, but I would only use them in an emergency.

First, let us start with oil. Oil is one of the easiest fluids to change and one of the most argued over. If you go on to any social media car enthusiast website and ask what brand of oil you should use you are going to be mixed results. You will get at least 5 different opinions about what to use and 10 opinions saying why the first five are wrong. It is one of those questions that only you can answer. You have to do your own research, perform your own tests and make your own well-informed decision. There are many different brands of oil, some better known than others, some much more expensive than others, but they all do the exact same job. They keep your engine components properly lubricated. I have found for my needs that Mobil 1 full synthetic works great. It is readily stocked at all my local stores and sits in the middle of the road for price. I always go to the local Meijer's to get oil. I have found that they sell oil at below cost, same at Wal-Mart. This is around a $10 difference when I purchase the gallon-sized container, which also happens to be the most commonly used amount. That extra money is not saved however, it goes towards the oil filter.

Ah yes, the oil filter. Another very simple to replace item that is argued about until the cows come home. I have had many friends swear buy certain manufacturers. This brand is better than this brand because of this. Yet again, this is one of those questions you will have to answer. I, again, use Mobil 1 as my brand of choice. Only because I have been using it for so long and have never experienced a failure. They come in various sizes and each brand is made of different material. Some offer better features then others and some even have special exterior features to aid removal and instillation.

To do most automotive oil changes here is what you will need. The correct oil and oil filter for your make, model and year of vehicle. A jack and jack stands, alternatively you can use a pair of ramps that allows you to drive the car onto thus raising the front end for better access underneath, a socket set or wrench set that has a variety of sizes in both standard and metric for the oil drain plug. A few shop rags or paper towels to clean up with, a funnel to aid in pouring the oil, a container to catch the used oil in and finally, an oil filter wrench. The filter wrench is a great tool for giving you the extra torque needed to loosen the oil filter. It is also nice to have handy as the engine and exhaust are hot and the farther away you can keep your hands the better the chance of not being burned. 

Note: It is better to change the oil when the car is warmed up or shortly after driving to aid in fluid drainage. Be careful, automotive engines commonly operate at or above 200* F.

If you have ramps then these will help you not only with an oil change, but also with many other preventive maintenance tasks. Either place the ramps at your front tires and carefully drive up or use your floor jack and jack stands to lift and support the front of the vehicle. Once you have positioned the vehicle allowing for enough room to maneuver underneath for the task at hand, be sure to set the parking break and chock the rear tires so the vehicle cannot move. Locate the oil pan, place the drainage receptacle underneath, find the right sized socket for the oil drain plug, and remember righty tightly, lefty loosey. Carefully remove the oil drain plug and set aside. At this point hot oil should be coming out of the engine and filling the drainage container. Once the drip has slowed, re-insert the plug and tighten down to the recommend torque setting. If you cannot find the setting, then make sure the plug is snugged down tightly. It is critical that this plug not fall out under vehicle operation. Once the plug is in place move the oil pan under the oil filter. Depending on the make and model of your vehicle, this could be anywhere. It is always best to find the item that needs attention to make sure you can perform the work with what you have. For most cars, the oil filter is screwed onto the bottom or side of the engine block. Utilizing the filter wrench, carefully loosen the filter until oil starts to pour out. I always let the filter sit on the last few treads and let the remaining oil drain out. Once that has slowed or stopped, remove the old filter along with the old gasket if it did not come off already. I wipe the area down with a rag before re-assembly. Take your new oil filter install it back on to the motor. Each filter has directions with it and each is installed differently, take note. Before I put mine on I always check to make sure the old seal came off, and prior to installing the new filter, I always put new fresh oil on the gasket of the new filter. I feel that it creates a better seal, just my opinion. Tighten the new filter down, remove the oil fill cap, place a funnel in the fill tube and carefully add the new oil. Inside your service manual or owner’s manual, it will tell you the specifics of how much oil and what type to use. Replace the oil cap and you are done! Congratulations, you just changed your own oil. It is easy and the first step of preventive maintenance. Once you are complete, make sure to start the vehicle and check for leaks. Make sure you dispose of your used fluids correctly and according to local laws.

Many of these decisions will be based off the limits of your wallet and while some of these fluids are not that expensive, the indirect costs can get pricey and just plain tiring. So make sure if you decide to change to a different brand or type of fluid that you take good mental notes of how the vehicle responds and jot down or remember your fuel mileage and vehicle mileage so you know you are performing service at the correct interval and not too soon or too late.

I cannot guarantee the same results that I have seen nor do I recommend that anyone just blindly take advice without asking a professional or doing their homework. A certain level of common sense applies here and I would hope that everyone does their own research and makes the right choice for themselves, their car and their wallet.