Going fast with class

What an idea! Take the love of going fast and incorporate the comfort of your favorite spot. Going fast is easy, anyone can pay someone to make their car faster. It is the ones who keep all the little convenience items intact while building their beast. To take out the old motor and put in a new one from a different car is cheating in my book. To keep it classy, one must keep some original items to show that you can have the best of both worlds. When I was rebuilding my first engine, I truly did not know what I was doing. I had an almost completely stock Grand National and I hacked the HVAC system out of it to make room for turbo plumbing. Worst choice I ever made. To replace those pieces would cost me hours of research and work and possibly thousands of dollars. If I would of made a more well informed decision, I could of retained the both the heat and the A/C. It is the little things that you lose sight of when getting into a big project. I see a lot of these cars with much more modifications made but they still appeared factory or at least had all the working factory components. I have really slowed down on my upgrades and it isn't because of money. I want to make sure that I have done all the research possible and that this is going to be the best informed decision that can be made, both for me and the longevity and performance of my vehicle.

The other things I want to touch on is the cleanliness of your ride. I know a lot of people just wait for the sky to open up and let nature wash the road grim and bugs off the car. It is easy as you just sit there and wait. It is cheap, as rain usually is and in some places, never seems to end. This method, while efficient, does not do a thorough enough job to proper wash your vehicle. While the methodology is highly debated, the main idea and end state are the same. Take a dirty car and make it a clean car. I think one of the most important places to keep rinsed all year round is the under carriage of the vehicle. This is most commonly the dirtiest place on a vehicle next to the engine and engine bay. Anything that is outside hits the bottom of your car. All the salt from winter, the sand from summer, the falling leaves from fall getting into all those hard to reach places and rotting away. All these factors have an impact on the readiness of your vehicle. Proper maintenance is not just changing fluids and rotating the tires. One must keep the dirt, grim, grease, oil, bugs, slime, tar and every other substance off your vehicle to maintain the longevity of the paint and other sensitive components.

I always wash my cars before and after every road trip, after every oil change, before going to car meets or shows, once a week in the winter to keep the salt from eating the paint and metal, and anytime I just don't have anything productive to do. I wash from the top down and front to back. I use Maguire's auto products because I like the selection and the price. I have not had any bad luck with them either and the products continue to keep my cars looking new.

Whatever you decide make sure you do your homework and keep it clean. There is nothing that hurts a car more than dirt, whether it be on the outside of the car, the interior of the car or in the engine. Dirt and contaminates are the number one destroyer of automobiles. Keep it shiny side up folks and stay fast, but don't compromise class.

Time to get up to speed.

The car I refer to as my second vehicle is a 2006 Subaru WRX Limited Wagon. Like every Subaru owner I have had the pleasure of meeting, we all love our Subaru. It is easy to understand why. They are safe, one of the safest manufacturers in fact. Almost every Subaru comes with Symmetrical All-wheel drive. A proven safety feature for all types of climate. Their manufacturing facility in Indiana has a zero landfill rating by the way.They have new technologies and high crash ratings. Another benefit of this particular model is the turbocharger system.

A turbocharged engine is able to produce more power than a naturally aspirated or "N/A" engine. A turbocharger is an air pump that uses exhaust gasses to spin a turbine wheel. The turbine wheel on the exhaust or "hot side" has a matching compressor wheel on the intake or "cold side." The two are connected by the same shaft that runs through a center housing and rotating assembly (CHRA). As the turbine spins, so does the compressor wheel. The compressor wheel spins at extremely high speeds—over 20,000 RPM's—and compresses the intake air. The compressed air passes through an intercooler and is sent to the cylinders. Exhaust gas is a waste product so the energy developed by the turbine is essentially free because it does not use any of the engine's power it helps to produce. I know that sounds like a mess of tornado's wrapped up in a bag of hurricanes so let me put it this way... The faster the exhaust leaves the motor and spins the turbo, the more the air is compressed and sent into the engine. This is commonly referred to as "boost."

The "hot side" or exhaust side of a turbocharger. Careful they can get up to 1800 degrees.

The "cold side" or intake side of a turbocharger. The air intake and up pipe shown installed (Left). The intake piping and up pipe removed (Right). Note the compressor wheel on the cold side of the turbo.

Above is the stock GM intercooler. This is a device that cools the air after is it charged from the turbo. Intercoolers work just like a radiator for an engine but instead of fluid being cooled, it is the air being cooled prior to entering the cylinders. The cooler the air, the more dense it is. Cooler air means increased efficiency, horsepower and torque. The intercooler is always located after the turbocharger and before the intake manifold. The boost that is added from the turbo is preset by the auto manufacturer. Many owners have changed the set limit or upgraded to a bigger sized turbo. The advantage of upgrading is more power. The flip-side to that is you will need supporting modifications to the vehicle to handle the bigger turbo and the added horsepower. This is not something you take lightly. A bigger turbo means you will need a stronger fuel pump, possibly bigger fuel lines. An upgraded air intake is highly recommended. You will also need to upgrade your fuel injectors to be able to match the amount of fuel with the amount of increased or "charged" air. With this increase in fuel and air you will also need to reprogram the vehicles computer to recognize these changes and make corrections accurately. This is known as a tune. Some places tune on the street while the car is driving in its natural habitat. While others prefer to dyno tune a car. This means that the car sits inside or on a trailer and is strapped down to a large rolling drum. The driver follows a procedure for accelerating and a computer measures the cars performance based on input from the car and the drum. Both have their respective advantages and disadvantages, like everything in life. I would personally have my car street tuned because that is where it will be when it is being used.

The thing that I really enjoy about a turbocharged car is its ability to speed up very rapidly. This is a safety measure in my book. When I need my vehicle to accelerate quickly, I know that it can and it will. Because of my military service, I take vehicle to another level. I want to know that when the need arises, I will be able to move quickly. My first turbo car was a Subaru, my second was a turbo Buick. I can guarantee that my third will be another Subaru. Hands down the most fun car I have ever owned and safest It has paid for itself time and time again. Unstoppable in all conditions, very dependable, and very easy to work on. I am not trying to sell Subaru as a brand I promise. Even though 95% of all Subaru's sold in the last 10 years are still on the road and that says a lot for a company.

Here comes the corner, hit the brakes!

 When you finally decide to get a new or "new to you" car, we go through a list of personal choices that we would like to have. For some, it is leather seats, power sunroofs, or “moon roofs” as I call them, navigation or a kickass sound system. Others opt for convenience items such as DVD/CD players, MP3 and Bluetooth technology that seems to follow us everywhere. While some of things may be important, I believe too many people over look one of the most important features of an automobile, the brakes.

I don’t know about you, but when I am operating my vehicle, or any vehicle for that matter, I always check the brakes before going anywhere. It may be a nice feeling when the car starts but it is even a better feeling when you go to hit the brakes suddenly and they work properly. Serious, life threaten events have been spared due to the simple fact that when you needed them, your vehicles braking system was there and was able to do exactly what it was designed to do.

There were over 32,000 traffic related deaths in 2014. Many of which could have been avoided with simple preventive maintenance. One very important maintenance item is the braking system. This system has evolved just as the modern car has. Over the years the style, look, material, production and application have all changed. Most automobiles these days come equipped with 4-wheel disc brakes. This means that each wheel has a rotor with a caliper installed. Inside the caliper are the brake pads. The older system, the drum braking system, is still used but has gone back on the shelf for many manufactures. The 4-wheel disc brake system is much easier to work on compared to the drum system, and the pictures will show you why.

First is a common drum brake system, removed from the vehicle. There is one additional piece that is bolted to the hub assembly called the wheel cylinder. The wheel cylinder acts as a caliper and uses hydraulic pressure to push the brake shoes against the inside of the drum thus slowing the vehicle.

This picture is of a common brake caliper system. The red caliper is bolted to the wheel hub assembly and floats on both sides of the rotor.

Drum systems consists of a somewhat complex system of springs, levers and hydraulic pistons. Each of these pieces have a unique place, fastened and under the protection of the drum, they all work together to make the car stop. On the caliper system, everything is accomplished internally under hydraulic pressure with one or more pistons or pots. These pistons push the brake pads against the rotor to slow the car down. Instead of messing with a web of springs under tension and different levers to change your pads, it is easier to unbolt two bolts and slide out the old pads and slide in the new ones.

The number one thing I look at on a vehicle are the brakes. If it does not have 4-wheel disc brakes then I don’t want it. I am not saying that they are not safe, I just prefer the advantage and simplicity of them compared to drum brakes. The ease of maintenance and performance are also excellent driving points, no pun intended.

Brake fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles or every two years, whichever comes first. Unfortunately, many of us over look this until we are told by a mechanic or friend that the fluid needs to be replaced. The most common term is having your brakes bled. This is another relatively easy maintenance task that you can accomplish yourself in about half a day. When completed yourself you can end up saving hundreds if not thousands of dollars’ worth of repairs over the years.

Here are some of the tools necessary for the job;

I usually use five mil nitrile gloves when I work on cars, keeps the hands clean. A pair of safety glasses or goggles with side protection will protect against splatter. Use a good rag to clean up with as you work. A jack and jack stands are necessary to remove the tire and support the vehicle. A decent funnel, make sure the filler neck will fit into the brake fluid reservoir fill hole. Quality brake fluid from a new, unopened container. DOT 3 is standard in most vehicles but be sure to check what the owner’s manual says. A brake bleeder screw wrench, this is sold in most auto stores and varies in size. Again, you will need to check what is recommended for your particular vehicle but if you cannot find one, just match up an open-ended wrench to the size of the screw. A turkey baster will come in handy to remove the old brake fluid from the reservoir. Finally yet importantly, a hand operated vacuum pump or similar one-man bleeder system. You can skip the vacuum pump if you have a friend that can sit in the car and pump the brakes as you break open the bleeder screws. This is a tedious and important job, make sure it is someone that can hold the brake down for extended periods.

In order to do this you would first set your parking brake and chock the wheels so the vehicle does not move. Break loose the wheel lug nuts, place your jack to provide adequate lifting range. Always follow equipment safety procedures. Lift the vehicle and place a jack stand so it will hold the weight properly. Remove the tire and wheel, place under the vehicle along the side skirts just in case the car falls, the tire and wheel will support the weight like a jack stand. Pop the hood so you can access the brake fluid reservoir. Take the turkey baster or suction pump if you have one and extract as much old brake fluid as possible. Be careful not to drip or spill any fluid, it is very corrosive if let alone on painted surfaces. Once you get as much out as you can, open the new fluid and carefully refill the reservoir. Replace the cap and move back to the first tire you are working on. This should be the farthest tire away from the reservoir, then the next and the next. The order most often goes right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Be sure to check your owner's manual or technical publication for the proper bleeding procedure. Once you establish the sequence, use a clear plastic tube from the hand vacuum and attach it to the bleeder screw. The screw will always be on the top of the caliper or wheel cylinder. Once attached, pump the vacuum until there are 15-20 in. Hg. Once there, carefully break loose the bleeder screw so the vacuum pulls the fluid from the caliper threw the bleeder screw and into the catch can provided with the vacuum system. Just before the pressure hits 0, tighten the screw back up to reseal it. Then start the process over again until clean, clear fluid is all that is being pulled out. This can take awhile as the fluid has to go from the reservoir all the way through the lines and out the bleeder screw. Be sure to check the fluid level and top off periodically, you do not want to run out of fluid in the reservoir as this will introduce air into the system. Air can compress and will diminish braking effectiveness. Once finished bleeding all four corners, reverse the order of removal and tighten all fasteners to the proper torque rating. BEFORE DRIVING OFF, once you start your vehicle pump the brakes a few times, turn off the car and re check the fluid level, chances are that it will be low.

If you have a helper instead of the hand pump, then while you are at the wheel with the clear tubing hooked up and draining into a container, have your helper pump the brakes 5-7 good full pumps and hold on the last one. Once they are holding the brake down, open the bleeder screw and let the old fluid flow out. While that is open the brake pedal will start to go to the floor. Just before that happens the helper needs to say something to prompt you to close the screw. If the pedal goes all the way down before the screw is closed, air can enter the system and you will have to start that wheel over. Repeat this process until clean fluid can be observed coming out.

The idea is to have clean, clear fluid with no air bubbles coming from the caliper's or wheel cylinder.

The process is time consuming but the result is a job you know was performed properly. The only cost involved is the new fluid and perhaps a vacuum pump or your friend’s time. I have done this many times on my vehicles so the tools that I have had to purchase have paid for themselves with the labor cost I have avoided by not going to a garage. Some shops charge over $100 to do a brake flush, you can do it for less than $50 the first time. Subsequent times would only cost the price of the fluid.

This is another easy preventive maintenance task that can be done over the weekend. I urge everyone to always do his or her research and use a common sense approach to maintenance. Safety first folks, brake fluid is harsh stuff. If you drip it on any painted surface on your car, within 30 minutes it will eat a hole down to bare metal. It also is very dangerous to the eyes and skin. Always clean up any spills before continuing work. Always wear and utilize proper protective equipment.

Fourth Gear

I want to talk about the lifeblood of your ride. There are up to nine fluids that keep your car or truck running. I will be hitting on some important ones that you can do yourself and save money on labor charges and or high priced service calls from your local "stealership" or garage.

The good news is that the fluids you require can be found at most auto part stores. If you do not have one of those handy then Wal-Mart, Meijer and Kmart stores also carry a decent selection of name brand and staple fluids. Even some gas stations will stock the very basic stuff, but I would only use them in an emergency.

First, let us start with oil. Oil is one of the easiest fluids to change and one of the most argued over. If you go on to any social media car enthusiast website and ask what brand of oil you should use you are going to be mixed results. You will get at least 5 different opinions about what to use and 10 opinions saying why the first five are wrong. It is one of those questions that only you can answer. You have to do your own research, perform your own tests and make your own well-informed decision. There are many different brands of oil, some better known than others, some much more expensive than others, but they all do the exact same job. They keep your engine components properly lubricated. I have found for my needs that Mobil 1 full synthetic works great. It is readily stocked at all my local stores and sits in the middle of the road for price. I always go to the local Meijer's to get oil. I have found that they sell oil at below cost, same at Wal-Mart. This is around a $10 difference when I purchase the gallon-sized container, which also happens to be the most commonly used amount. That extra money is not saved however, it goes towards the oil filter.

Ah yes, the oil filter. Another very simple to replace item that is argued about until the cows come home. I have had many friends swear buy certain manufacturers. This brand is better than this brand because of this. Yet again, this is one of those questions you will have to answer. I, again, use Mobil 1 as my brand of choice. Only because I have been using it for so long and have never experienced a failure. They come in various sizes and each brand is made of different material. Some offer better features then others and some even have special exterior features to aid removal and instillation.

To do most automotive oil changes here is what you will need. The correct oil and oil filter for your make, model and year of vehicle. A jack and jack stands, alternatively you can use a pair of ramps that allows you to drive the car onto thus raising the front end for better access underneath, a socket set or wrench set that has a variety of sizes in both standard and metric for the oil drain plug. A few shop rags or paper towels to clean up with, a funnel to aid in pouring the oil, a container to catch the used oil in and finally, an oil filter wrench. The filter wrench is a great tool for giving you the extra torque needed to loosen the oil filter. It is also nice to have handy as the engine and exhaust are hot and the farther away you can keep your hands the better the chance of not being burned. 

Note: It is better to change the oil when the car is warmed up or shortly after driving to aid in fluid drainage. Be careful, automotive engines commonly operate at or above 200* F.

If you have ramps then these will help you not only with an oil change, but also with many other preventive maintenance tasks. Either place the ramps at your front tires and carefully drive up or use your floor jack and jack stands to lift and support the front of the vehicle. Once you have positioned the vehicle allowing for enough room to maneuver underneath for the task at hand, be sure to set the parking break and chock the rear tires so the vehicle cannot move. Locate the oil pan, place the drainage receptacle underneath, find the right sized socket for the oil drain plug, and remember righty tightly, lefty loosey. Carefully remove the oil drain plug and set aside. At this point hot oil should be coming out of the engine and filling the drainage container. Once the drip has slowed, re-insert the plug and tighten down to the recommend torque setting. If you cannot find the setting, then make sure the plug is snugged down tightly. It is critical that this plug not fall out under vehicle operation. Once the plug is in place move the oil pan under the oil filter. Depending on the make and model of your vehicle, this could be anywhere. It is always best to find the item that needs attention to make sure you can perform the work with what you have. For most cars, the oil filter is screwed onto the bottom or side of the engine block. Utilizing the filter wrench, carefully loosen the filter until oil starts to pour out. I always let the filter sit on the last few treads and let the remaining oil drain out. Once that has slowed or stopped, remove the old filter along with the old gasket if it did not come off already. I wipe the area down with a rag before re-assembly. Take your new oil filter install it back on to the motor. Each filter has directions with it and each is installed differently, take note. Before I put mine on I always check to make sure the old seal came off, and prior to installing the new filter, I always put new fresh oil on the gasket of the new filter. I feel that it creates a better seal, just my opinion. Tighten the new filter down, remove the oil fill cap, place a funnel in the fill tube and carefully add the new oil. Inside your service manual or owner’s manual, it will tell you the specifics of how much oil and what type to use. Replace the oil cap and you are done! Congratulations, you just changed your own oil. It is easy and the first step of preventive maintenance. Once you are complete, make sure to start the vehicle and check for leaks. Make sure you dispose of your used fluids correctly and according to local laws.

Many of these decisions will be based off the limits of your wallet and while some of these fluids are not that expensive, the indirect costs can get pricey and just plain tiring. So make sure if you decide to change to a different brand or type of fluid that you take good mental notes of how the vehicle responds and jot down or remember your fuel mileage and vehicle mileage so you know you are performing service at the correct interval and not too soon or too late.

I cannot guarantee the same results that I have seen nor do I recommend that anyone just blindly take advice without asking a professional or doing their homework. A certain level of common sense applies here and I would hope that everyone does their own research and makes the right choice for themselves, their car and their wallet.

Third Gear

Tools, some people should not own tools. Unfortunately, some of us were not endowed with a mechanical ability to diagnose problems and solve them. There is no shame in calling in a professional for help, that is what they are there for. For the rest of us that want to tackle certain jobs, there is a plethora of “tools of the trade.” These tools, in some cases, are our lifeline. I know in the auto mechanic world, having your own set of quality tools is necessary. For do-it-yourselfers however, a $6000 to $20000 dollar tool chest does not fit into the budget. For certified mechanics that is how they make their living. Therefore, if you go into a professional garage you may find that many mechanics have personal tool boxes stocked with their own tools. Some companies provide tools sets, while others do not. I feel It is just better to always have your own stuff rather than borrow from someone else. Boxes range in size, shape and color but all still have the same function. They all hold thousands, if not tens of thousands of dollars in tools and equipment. That tends to take up a lot of space and is usually difficult to move around, I have seen people call tow truck companies to provide a “rollback” transport to move their toolboxes from one job site to another.

Fortunately, do-it-yourselfers can accomplish many standard tasks with some basic tools and pieces of equipment that do not take up a full trailer. Here are some examples of the tools that I feel are necessary to preform vehicle preventive maintenance.

A quality mechanics toolset: A mechanics toolset is usually made up of a ½” ratchet and socket set, a 3/8” ratchet and socket set and a ¼” ratchet and socket set. Sometimes it will also have a small Allen key set and or a screwdriver set with various bits or a very small selection of popular sized open-end wrenches.You cannot go wrong with a set that has about 135 pieces. I personally have a 137-pc Craftsman set that is my go to set for 85% of my auto work. Craftsmen is a good brand that has a lifetime warranty on all hand tools. There are many brands out there but it is up to you to choose the right tool for the right job and the right budget. Sometimes you can get away with a cheaper tool, other times you will have to spend a little coin to get what you want or need. Sears and Kmart both stock Craftsmen, Harbor Freight offers a lifetime guarantee on hand tools as well. They have been very competitively priced compared to other providers. I do however strongly feel you get what you pay for, so buyer beware. 

A torque wrench: If you take a fastener off a vehicle, 95% of the time it will need to be properly torqued back on. This is also where good research skill come into play. You should try to find any technical manual for your respective vehicle. You can print diagrams and literature from the internet, or purchase a Haynes or Chilton manual offline or in your local auto parts store. They should provide the required torque for the fastener in question. For those that do not know, a torque wrench is a mechanical device that provides and accurate measure of how much force is being applied to an object in ft.-lbs. or in.-lbs. Usually over a foot in length they can range in price from $10 - $500. Quality is important so again do your research. Many manufactures will include the accuracy of their respective product. Usually shown as (+/- .5 lbs) or the like.

Floor jack and jack stands: In order to get under your car, you will need to raise it up and be able too safely support the weight of the vehicle while you are working on it. Most vehicles come with a convenience jack that should only be used to change a flat tire with the spare in the case of an emergency. If you are going to be using the jack more than a few times a year. I highly recommend getting a 1.5-ton to a 3-ton floor jack. Choose one that will be able to fit underneath the side of your vehicle as it sits with the tires properly inflated. It also needs to be able to raise your vehicle high enough to perform the work that is needed. You will also want to make sure that you are utilizing the proper lifting points as outlined in the owner’s manual or vehicle service manual. If you do not follow safe lifting procedures, serious injury or even death can occur. Cars and trucks are not toys and there should never be any assumptions when it comes to supporting a vehicle. Always use jack stands rated for more than the vehicle GVWR.

Armed with those few items at the ready, anyone can accomplish many preventive tasks outlined in your owner’s manual. Many other incidental items come in handy while working on your vehicles as well. Items like rags and cleaning agents, safety glasses and or hearing protection, gloves and protective clothing and shoes. Various cans of penetrating oil and anti-size will help loosen stubborn bolts and nuts, a radio can really help take care of the silence and a creeper so you can roll instead of crawl across the floor. Remember your phone or a digital camera to take pictures before and during your work. It is always nice to have a reference photo to look back on to make sure you did not miss or forget anything. As a last resort you can always draw what you see and make notes.

It is nice to have your own set of tools. It really gives a sense of self-confidence and independence. It not only helps when you need to work on your vehicles, but they also are handy to have around the house, office or even boat. Whatever your choice is, make sure you do your homework. There are so many options out there that it can be overwhelming. Just remember that when it comes to choosing the right tool, it needs to fit the job and the budget. 

Second Gear

While some people don't see their vehicle as one of their prized possessions, I however, do. Like I mentioned in my earlier post, I loved and hated my first car. It wasn't all the cars fault though. That car had a lot of emotional events attached to it, just like I am sure most of you, if not all, have some emotional stories of your own to tell. Now, my second car was, and still is a thing of beauty.

There are also some people that would just cringe at the idea of driving an import. This vehicle is more than just any import. This car is my 2006 Subaru Impreza WRX limited wagon, yes you read that correctly, I said a Subaru wagon. When I was searching for my replacement vehicle, I wanted it to be a few things. One thing it had to be was a four door, I played that coupe game and it isn't for me, I say that and later you will learn of my exception, the other things I wanted were easy enough. I wanted it to be good one fuel, I like the idea of not filling up every two days, gas ain't cheap folks. I wanted it to have room inside, be safe and be somewhat fast. Well that really narrowed down the selection and after a few weeks of looking I finally found this baby on a AAA car buying website. I didn't even know AAA sold cars at that time. I called about it, slept on it, and within the next few days put $500.00 down on it to hold until I could get things in order. That's right, I bought this car offline, site unseen. The first time I saw it was when they drove it to our house from AAA in Charlotte, NC over to Jacksonville, NC, where we lived. I remember it vividly. Now this was a huge step up from that 1985 shit box that I loathed, yet still wish I had, so I knew that I had to take care of it. I made a list of "rules" that would strictly be adhered to. Some of those have been bent on occasion, A few I blew out of the water, but hey, it was my ride and I could do want I wanted. Always being into cars, I wanted to upgrade right away, but I had to learn a few things first. As the old saying goes "you have to crawl before you can walk". Well I was going to be learning to crawl for a couple of weeks, as this car also had a manual transmission. I knew how to drive a stick shift but I wasn't a "seasoned driver", so I made a compromise, become comfortable with the car first, then do the research on what you want. You want this car to last? Then you have to learn how it feels and take care of it.

You have to be in tune with your car. You should always know the basic's about your vehicle; make and model, year, what sub-model you have (LT, SE,SS ect...) and your engine size. These are the very same basic questions anyone at any auto parts store or dealership will ask you, if and when, you go in for parts or service. I still surprises me how many people do not know what they drive. It seems everyone now knows all the celebrities and whats going on with them or what kind of shoes they have or all the apps they have on their phone or some other tidbit of useless information. People use this item every day and yet, it goes unnoticed. Like I said, you need to be in tune with your vehicle. You should know how it feels when it is running optimally, and when there might be a vibration that wasn't there before or a new howling sound coming somewhere from the back of the vehicle. These little things play a huge role in the upkeep of your car, truck, minivan, weekend cruiser or grocery get'er.

First Gear

I didn't know what to expect from my first car. I hadn't put a lot of thought into it at the time. I just wanted something that would go from point A to point B in a reasonable amount of time. I wasn't really worried about the important things that go with owning a car. I was young, and uninformed. I just wanted to have a car and enjoy that first taste of adulthood. It's funny how hind sight works.

My first car was a nightmare. It was a 1985 Buick Electra T-Type, not a bad car for its time, but I didn't own it during its "time". I was the second owner of this classic, $400 beast and it took a lot of TLC to get it back on the road. It had sat in a driveway for about eight years, rotting away. The only time it moved was to go into the garage for winter, and back out in the driveway for summer. I think it clocked a total of just over half a mile in those years. The car was a mess that only got worse. I loved and hated that car, every time I fixed something, without fail, something else would break or need replacing. My wife would joke with me to just let it die, that it needed to be put out to the pasture. I wouldn't have any of it, I refused to let that car die. I loved that car, worked hard on it, swore at it, kicked it, busted my knuckles on it, cried because of it and swore I would never let it go. But alas, its time has come. It had a good run, I put countless parts on it, spent hours troubleshooting different problems but the time had come, enough was enough. I told my wife that when I returned from Iraq I didn't want to see that car in the driveway.  I held to my end of the deal just as she did, I came home and the car was gone. It was bitter sweet but a blessing in its own way. It started a path that I would continue down for the rest of my life.

I cannot explain why, but I feel like if you own something you should take care of it and do your best to keep that item serviceable. I tried like hell to keep that first car together, it was a money pit and an eye sore to boot but it was mine. Of course it is not like I could just go out and get another car whenever I wanted, I was not a "fortunate son".

So what do you do? You take care of what you have. You fill it up, clean it out, dust it off and every now and then throw a bucket of water on it. The easiest way to do that is to start with something new or new to you. Not all of us have a nice, show room floor ride as our first. But I think if all of us treated it as such we would be a little different, hold our heads a little higher. It may sound silly and to some, a waste of time but I assure you, this is one of those things that the more you put in, the more you will get back. That first car was indeed a nightmare, but I gained great knowledge from that experience. My confidence rose, my situational awareness became sharper and I learned quite quickly how easy it is to be taken advantage of, just by not knowing my own vehicle.